With Games Workshop’s release of the Warhammer
Age of Sigmar: Soul Wars starter set came a new chamber for the Stormcast
Eternals, the Sacrosanct Chamber. This
sect of the Stormcast Eternals focuses on magical weaponry, enhancements and
beefy spellcasting.
Sequitors are the first choice for your battleline units in games of Warhammer Age of Sigmar. Sequitors are the Liberator’s final form. Better in every way and currently undercosted in the 2018 Generals Handbook, they are a must have inclusion in your Stormcast Eternals, and specifically Sancrosanct Chamber lists.
The Sequitors Stormsmite Mauls and Stormsmite Greatmaces are solid weapons. Both hit and wound on a three plus. Sequitors shine when you take as many Stormsmite Greatmaces as you can, one in every three models, plus the Sequitor-Prime unit leader can take one as well.
For example, a unit of ten models can have four Stormsmite Greatmaces! To top that off, a hit roll of six with a Stormsmite Greatmace does D3 hits instead of one. This allows for some crazy extra attacks with good dice RNG (random number generation).
Sequitors can also take Tempest Blades instead of Stormsmite Mauls, granting them an three attacks instead of two, but they wound on a four plus instead of a three plus.
Sequitors have two wounds and get to reroll saves of one for any units carrying a Stormshield (sorry Greatmaces, but that’s the tradeoff), on top of their base save of a four plus. They also get an ability called Aetheric Channeling which allows you choose to channel aetheric power into their weapons or shields at the start of the combat phase.
If you choose to channel aetheric power into your shields, you get to re-roll ALL of your failed saves, not just the ones. If you choose weapons instead, you get to re-roll all failed hits. This ability stacks with the Evocator’s Empower Spell, which if successful allows the Sequitors to re-roll failed wound rolls. A minimum unit of Evocators is a must have inclusion in lists running Sequitors.
While I personally feel that Sequitors are a little overpowered as an automatic inclusion in games of Warhammer Age of Sigmar, they are not impossible to deal with. They can be hammered down, or at least weakened with shooting attacks. This gives them better balance against armies with lots of shooting, such as the Kharadron Overlords.
Baldur’s Gate: Enhanced Edition for PC is the penultimate version of this classic Dungeons and Dragons RPG adventure. Baldur’s Gate is a top-down isometric view RPG adventure where you roll a single character or an entire party of adventurers to experience the story of your unusual parentage and the mysterious circumstances the Sword Coast of Faerun currently finds itself in.
The world of Faerun is a vastly fleshed out world in the Forgotten Realms campaign setting for Dungeons & Dragons and many characters from the books and pen and paper RPGs like the wizard Elminster and the drow ranger Drizzt Do’Urden appear in Baldur’s Gate.
Baldur’s Gate is built on the 2nd Edition rules for Dungeons and Dragons and still remains one of my favorite RPG systems from when I was a kid. The game can be paused at any time by pressing Spacebar allowing you to micro manage your party’s actions during combat. And there are some intense encounters where you really need to.
Expect to fight all of the classic monsters from Dungeons and Dragons such as Kobolds, Gnolls, Trolls, Giants, Doppelgangers, Beholders, carrion crawlers, liches and many more. The updated spell effects and sounds really make your spell casters shine as almost all of the spell effects were updated with more depth and animations. And all of the classic D&D spells are available for your wizards, druids and clerics. Some of my favorites are Magic Missile, Fireball, Lightning Bolt, Bless, and Monster Summoning and all look fantastic in Baldur’s Gate: Enhanced Edition.
In 2016, Beamdog Inc had acquired permissions to re-release the Baldur’s Gate and Icewind Dale series as Enhanced Editions and boy did they deliver. Beamdog faithfully updated the entire game’s graphics, sounds on an updated version of the original Infinity Engine. They even added new NPC’s to find and add to your party and some new side quests.
Beamdog has preserved the look, feel, mechanics, and spirit of the game and I have bought almost all of the Enhanced Edition Games they have released on Steam.
My Love Affair With Baldur’s Gate started with the original release of the game in 1998. Baldur’s Gate was originally developed by Bioware and published by Interplay Entertainment. I put in hundreds of hours in the base game and its expansion Tales of the Sword coast during high school and later in college.
Since that time I’ve done at least 10 full playthroughs with different main characters, including an evil character run that was just as memorable as any of my others.
If you are a fan of pen and paper RPGs like Dungeons and Dragons or Pathfinder, and you want to play one of the best RPGs ever made on PC, then Baldur’s Gate: Enhanced Edition is the place to start.
I highly recommend you check it out for yourself along with the other games from that series. Beamdog currently has released Baldur’s Gate, Baldur’s Gate II, Icewind Dale and Icewind Dale II. They are all amazing and Beamdog has even released a brand new expansion for Baldur’s Gate called Siege of Dragonspear that has never been seen before. That’s right, they made a full game expansion for a title that is now over 20 years old.
That is the kind of dedication to an intellectual property that I wish more developers had these days and it shines through every bit of work they did on enhancing Baldur’s Gate.
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The Celestar Ballista adds a versatile artillery piece to armies of Stormcast Eternals. The Celestar Ballista was released in the Warhammer Age of Sigmar: Soul Wars box and in a separate easy to build kit.
The separate kit has its own unique sculpts for the Sacristan Engineers that crew the machine, and a different front armored plate of the ballista. This makes for some decent variety when picking up multiples of the Celestar Ballista for your shooty lists.
The Celestar Ballista models have two modes of fire with the Versatile Weapon ability. You decide which to use before firing in the shooting phase. Single shot has a range of a whopping thirty-six inches, with one attack hitting and wounding on a three plus, with minus two rending and one damage. This miniature model is perfect for sniping some wounds on an enemy hero unit out of reach of your battle line units.
The rapid fire mode is where I feel the Celestar Ballista really shines. Getting four attacks and hitting on a five plus, instead of the three plus Single Shot gets you. No matter which firing mode you choose, any time an attack hits, it explodes into d6 hits on the target because of the units ability, Chained Lightning.
In single shot mode you have a small chance to do six hits, and in Rapid Fire mode that increases to a potential twenty four wounds being dealt!
Obviously, the stars and dice rolls have to align perfectly for that to happen, especially with the harder to hit rolls, but you can still hope to average a few wounds every time you pull the trigger in rapid fire mode if the dice are with you. (If you feel like the dice you’re rolling are “unlucky”, check out the bag of 40 dice from Wiz Dice below. Papa likes to have a few sets on hand just in case.)
The Sacristan Engineers crewing the Celestar Ballista have to stay within one inch of it when moving, and defend it in close combat with their Sigmarite Blades. If you have the Celestar Ballista in a piece of terrain cover, it gets plus two to its save of a four plus because of their Bastions of Death ability.
Celestar Ballistas are a must buy for any Stormcast Eternals or Order faction player in games of Warhammer Age of Sigmar. Costing only one hundred points when building a list, it’s easy to fit one or two into your miniature game army, and they are definitely worth the points cost. The Celestar Ballista pairs up well with the Lord-Ordinator as he adds one to all hit rolls made by any Order War Machines like the Celestar Ballista within nine inches of him.
Building models has always been a great choice for a hobby. It’s relaxing, fun, builds fine motor skills and gives you full control over how you pose or build your models. Whether you build muscle cars, airplanes, tanks, or full armies of fifteen or twenty-eight millimeter models for tabletop wargames, you’ll need a core set of tools in your toolkit to be able to build them properly.
For me, miniature modeling is my meditation and therapy. It’s my time to recharge after a stressful day, or simply have fun creating something. I gravitate towards twenty-eight millimeter figures since I play Warhammer Age of Sigmar by Games Workshop. But whether you are new to miniature modeling, or you’re looking to round out your modeling toolkit, this list should give you a starting point no matter what kind of modeling project you’re tackling. In no particular order, here are my top 10 tools of the trade for building and customizing plastic, resin or metal model kits.
Clippers
Building plastic model kits starts with clipping parts of the model off of the plastic sprues. The sprue is the frame that holds all of the parts together after it comes out of the molding machine. You’ll need a good set of clippers to cleanly cut the parts off the larger parts of the sprue. I use the Cheery Lynn Designs S140 Metal Snippers. They make clean cuts and have thin cutting tips to get into those hard to reach places. Because they are capable of cutting metal, they can be used for metal and resin kits as well as providing a very clean cut on plastic. Another great and affordable choice is the IGAN-170 Flush Wire Cutters.
Hobby Knife & Extra Blades
After cutting out your parts, you’ll need to clean up any leftover mold lines and bits of sprue on each peace. A good hobby knife that uses number eleven (#11) blades is a must-have when building any model kit. You can use the sharp side of the hobby knife for cutting and trimming parts, and you can use the back side of the blade at a ninety degree angle to scrape off mold lines. I use the Excel Blades Soft Grip K18 Hobby Knife because you tighten the blade down on the back side of the knife and it prevents the blade from getting loose during use, which is an issue with cheaper hobby knives.
I highly recommend picking up at least a one hundred (100) count pack of extra number eleven blades so you can always be using a fresh and sharp blade. Dull blades can cause the knife to slip and instead of cutting the plastic you can end up cutting yourself. I change to a new blade after every few model kits, depending on their size, as a safety precaution.
Pin Vise
A Pin Vise is a precision tool for drilling small holes. Pin Vises are necessary to drill out the end of weapon barrels as they are often filled in on a lot of model sculpts and adding small magnets to models for swapping weapons. Pin Vises are also essential when building metal models, as the joints often need to be pinned as well as super glued for strength.
Pinning is a modeling technique where you drill small holes into the mating surface of two parts and glue in a small section of stiff wire or paperclip when attaching the parts together. This reinforces the model in the same way that rebar bolsters concrete.
Pin Vises normally come with a set of tiny metric drill bits, but I recommend picking up a small set of standard (SAE) drill bits as well, because most pin vises can hold up to a one eighth inch drill bit and one eighth inch is a good size for most magnetization needs. I use an older Citadel pin vise that is no longer available, but for more up-to-date kits, I recommend either the Paxcoo Pin Vise kit or the CML Supply Mini Micro Drill Bit Set and Pin Vise. Both sets come with a thirty piece set of micro drill bits in a range of sizes.
Work Holder for Small Models
For painting individual miniatures or parts of all scales, it is useful to have something to hold the miniature after you’ve built it to get it primed. Work holders or painting handles can be made of just about anything. Old pill bottles, small jars, or wooden craft block are all useful as a work holder with the addition of some sticky tack on top to hold the mini or part.
Games Workshop also has an official Warhammer 40K Citadel Painting Handle with a spring loaded top made for holding primarily twenty eight millimeter miniature bases. I have one in addition to my home made painting handles, and it works awesome with enough weight in the base to hold even full metal minis without the handle falling over when you set it on the table.
I mainly use it for single hero figures that I spend more time painting on and it works great. Games Workshop also has two other versions of their painting handle, the XL is for holding larger based models than the standard size can hold and the Assembly Handle that has two soft hold clips for holding delicate parts while gluing a hard to work with miniature.
Tweezers/Pliers
A good set of tweezers and a set of pliers are essentials for your toolkit. Some model parts are very small and hard to hold while gluing pieces in place. Tweezers assist well here, as well as with adding rocks and plants to your bases after painting. I suggest you grab a set of Tweezer Guru Precision Tweezers as they are high quality without being too expensive.
Pliers are a necessity for pinning models as they are needed to straighten out lengths of wire or paper clip and then cutting them to length. I like to use a set with a ninety degree angle on the jaws such as the Ion Tool 7” Angled Needle Nose Pliers as it makes it easier to shape your pinning material as well as removing temporary pins. ProTip: Never use your pliers directly on plastic parts as they will quickly ruin detail.
Plastic Glue
A good plastic glue is necessary to build any plastic model or miniature. There are several options available from all of the major brands like Plastruct, Tamiya, Testors and Citadel. Plastic glue actually melts the plastic where it is applied and when two parts are glued together this way a permanent bond is created as the plastic from the two parts melts together and then dries. Plastic glue also comes in several thicknesses. I personally prefer the Tamiya glues as they have a nice brush in the cap for precision application. I use the Extra Thin consistency for most of my model building needs, and medium consistency Plastic Cement for more gap filling action between parts.
Super Glue/Super Glue Accelerator
Plastic glue is great for plastic models, but if you are building in resin or metal, super glue is the right adhesive for the job. I have found most plastic minis don’t adhere well to their bases with plastic glue, so I attach all of my minis to their bases with super glue.
Super glue is useful for adding rocks, plants, cork, etc to your bases. Virtually any super glue will work for building models, and cheap super glue is readily available at any hardware or dollar store. For me though, I’m one of 5% of the population that is extremely allergic to super glue (you can read more about what to do if you have a glue allergy here), so use I use Super-Gold+ Odorless superglue that doesn’t off gas the substance I’m allergic to.
A proper super glue accelerator like Insta-Set does what it says and instantly sets and dries any super glue it comes in contact with. I find this to be essential when attaching built models to bases as it’s inconvenient and sometimes impossible to hold the model to the base in position until the glue dries.
White Glue
You might be surprised to find that standard white glue used in kid’s craft projects is a useful adhesive to keep on hand. Elmer’s is the most common brand here in the USA and is the one I use. White craft glue is useful for gluing grass flocking or dirt/rock mixes to bases. It can be thinned down with water in a one to one ratio to allow it flow down and through thick coverings of these materials. The white color allows you to easily see where the glue is being applied, and it dries clear and takes primer and acrylic paints well if needed.
Green Stuff
“Green Stuff” is a universal two part modeling putty material with a long working time and a twenty-four hour full set time. Green stuff can be worked by clay carving tools or molds to fill gaps, or to create unique custom parts for your miniatures. This one material can expand your ability to be creative when building models by allowing you to easily customize pieces to your own liking or for special purposes.
Add a cheap set of clay molding tools like this eleven piece set from eBoot and you’ll be making custom parts in no time.
Games Workshop also makes a product called Liquid Green Stuff although not everyone likes it. For me, I find that it is useful as a gap filling material as well as giving you the ability to add texture to flat surfaces.
No matter which version of Green Stuff modeling putty you use, once dry, green stuff can be easily sanded and primed for painting.
Sanding Sticks
Once your model is built, and your green stuff is dry, you may need to cleanup some minor flashing or sand down your modeling putty into the proper shape. Sanding sticks like these twenty packs from DuraSand are cheap and come in many different grits and can be further cut to any length. Essentially, they’re a more flexible emery board like those used by nail salons. Sanding sticks are able to get into those hard to reach places and their flexibility means you can bend them around curves of different radii with ease. I keep a little cup on my hobby table full of sanding sticks ready to go when building models or using green stuff.
I hope these recommendations help you to get started building your go-to toolkit for modeling. The more you model, the more creative you’ll get with finding tools to keep your creativity going. No matter if you’re just starting out, or you’re a modeling professional, having the right tools for the job makes all the difference.
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I started building and painting twenty-eight millimeter scale miniatures several years ago. The first miniature I ever painted was a pewter Eladrin Warlock character, for a Dungeons and Dragons fourth edition campaign I was starting with some friends. It was a fun project that taught me the basics of modeling and painting. I was hooked from that first project and I’ve managed to fully paint and base several hundred minis since. Now I maintain a large modeling, painting and gaming space to enjoy my hobby in. However, I’ve got an issue, I’m allergic to super glue.
Why does glue smell?
We all know that cyanoacrylate
adhesives, more commonly known as super glues, are really stinky. The reason for the smell, is most super glues
offgas a vaporized version of cyanoacrylate monomer. This monomer can irritate your mucous
membranes in the respiratory tract. For most people, using these adhesives in a
well ventilated room is enough to prevent side effects. However, about 5% of
the population is allergic enough that this irritation turns into what feels
like a head cold or flu for several days.
I found out I was allergic to most glues through trial and error. Once I started really getting into miniature modeling, I was using super glue a lot more than I had previously. Eventually, I made the connection that every time I spent a day building models, I was sick for a week with a head cold or flu. It took being sick for almost a month solid until I figured out that my super glue was the issue. After a ton of searching online, I started finding testimonials from other miniature modelers out there that had the same super glue allergy.
How do I stick stuff together if I’m allergic to Super Glue?
I realized I had two
choices, either rebuild my workspace with tons of crazy ventilation under a
chemical hood, or find a superglue that was odorless.
Pretty much everyone I found that posted about flue allergies recommended using the Super-Gold+ CA odorless super glues. They are expensive compared to standard glues, but they don’t offgas that mucous membrane irritating monomer. The glues come in a range of thicknesses from very thin to thick gap filling. This allows you to continue gluing miniatures and models, no matter your application. I mostly use the medium thickness for gluing models to bases, building metal and resin models, adding basing plants/rocks, and final model assembly after painting those hard to reach spots. It really is the best middle ground for general assembly of different materials like cork, plastic, pewter, resin, dirt, rocks, etc.
Since I started using
odorless super glues, I no longer have those crazy side effects from my
allergy. This has been huge for me personally, as miniature modeling and
painting has become a regular form of meditation and therapy for dealing with
my other chronic health issues. I
wouldn’t have been able to come this far with my painting and modeling skills without
an odorless option for superglues.
So, if you are starting out in the miniature modeling and painting hobby and you begin having unexplained head cold and flu like symptoms, it might just be the super glue you are using. But don’t let that stop you from enjoying an amazing family hobby. The wealth of miniatures that need some assembly and paintwork are still accessible to you with a solid odorless superglue like the Super-Gold+ Odorless. To check this great glue out for yourself, you can find it on Amazon here.
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Chainrasp Hordes are one of the main battleline troop choices for your Games Workshop Warhammer Age of Sigmar Nighthaunt army. They are most effective in units of 10 or more, I personally think they go great with a unit of twenty of them alongside some Hexwraiths or Glaivewraith Stalkers. You always want to upgrade one of the models in a unit of Chainrasp Hordes to the Dreadwarden unit leader as that model gets and extra attack with its Malignant Weapon and the unit gets bravery ten instead of bravery 6. So leaving him till the last model you pull as a casualty is an important tip to remember. Units of ten or models of Chainrasp Hordes also get to re-roll wound rolls of a one.
Chainrasp Hordes are available in a unit of twenty in the Warhammer Age of Sigmar: Soul Wars starter set and in their own box of easy-to-build models that builds a unit of ten. Each model gets two attacks hitting on fours and wounding on fours doing one damage for each wound. They can then be buffed by the Knight of Shrouds on Ethereal Steed’s extra attack and a re-roll on failed hits from Crawlocke the Jailor or a Spirit Torment from the Warhammer Age of Sigmar: Soul Wars starter set. Being able to roll sixty plus dice worth of attacks even hitting and wounding on fours can be devastating to just about any unit they go up against. Easily dishing out 10-15 wounds a turn on average per combat round. Chainrasp Hordes are a cheap and effective battleline troops choice for your Warhammer Age of Sigmar Nighthaunt army and are an automatic buy when building a new Nighthaunt army. I highly recommend buying the Warhammer Age of Sigmar: Soul Wars starter set to get a nice unit of 20 of them along with all the other amazing units that come in the box for your Nighthaunt army. As it is an amazing value for anyone starting out in the hobby or wanting to build a new Nighthaunt or Stormcast Eternals army.
Glaivewraith Stalkers are one of the coolest new Nighthaunt
units available from Games Workshop for Warhammer Age of Sigmar and as the
backstory states:
“A Glaivewraith Stalker is an unstoppable force. Its long blade always points at the beating heart of its intended victim….”
This holds true in gameplay. The Glaivewraith Stalkers are truly an unstoppable force in Warhammer Age of Sigmar and once you add a drummer, get a unit of at least ten models, and back them up with a Guardian of Souls or Crawlocke the Jailor/Spirit Torment to stack an extra attack. Having at least 1 drummer in the unit allows you to retreat and charge in the same turn and charging grants +1 to their hit rolls bringing their 4+ down to a 3+. The craziness really starts if you are able to use 2 different abilities to stack and extra attack on their profile. Suddenly, you are throwing forty six sided dice hitting on a 3+ on the charge. As long as you remember one basic rule, Always Be Charging with Glaivewraith Stalkers they will perform well in just about every situation consistantly throwing tons of wounds against enemy units.
No matter which way you pick up some Glaivewraith Stalkers, if you are playing Nighthaunt or any other death army, they are must buy for your collection. As the models themselves have really cool and elegant sculpts, the easy to build kits go together really fast and look amazing. They are amazing in games of Warhammer Age of Sigmar. And if you can back them up with a boosting hero as mentioned earlier in your lists, they only get better.
Want to see more? Check out some of our other lists and reviews below.
The Guardian of Souls is a Hero and Wizard character for Games Workshop’s Warhammer Age of Sigmar Nighthaunt army. Only available in the Warhammer Age of Sigmar: Souls Wars starter set, The Guardian of Souls is a great little spellcasting hero. His Nightmare Lantern allows any friendly Nighthaunt models within nine inches of the Guardian of Souls to add one to their wound rolls, helping to ensure those hits turn into wounds for your melee units. His unique spell Spectral Lure, if successfully cast during the Hero phase, allows the Guardian of Souls to heal d6 wounds allocated to a unit with eighteen inches or if no wounds are allocated to any models you can return a number of slain models to the unit with a combined wounds characteristic equal to or less than the rolled d6. Hooray for bringing back the dead to fight again.
If the Guardian of Souls gets in trouble and has to enter melee
combat, he has a respectable three attacks hitting and wounding on a 3+ with -1
rending and 1 damage each with his Chill Blade.
However, it’s highly recommended to never let him enter close combat as
he should be buffing your mainline troops to greatness with his nine inch wound
bubble and bringing the dead back to life again instead of getting his ghostly
hands dirty.
The Knight of Shrouds is a Hero character for Games Workshop’s Warhammer Age of Sigmar Nighthaunt army. The Knight of Shrouds is available by itself on foot as the named character Keldrek and in the Warhammer Age of Sigmar: Souls Wars starter set on an Ethereal Steed. Either version are a great option for your general in a Nighthaunt army in smaller games of Warhammer Age of Sigmar. Both have beautiful sculpts that really show off Games Workshop latest advancements in the CAD design and production of these kits. They really have been producing some of their most beautiful and easy to assemble models in the last couple of years.
The Knight of Shrouds on foot is amazing in melee with his Sword
of Stolen Hours. The sword not only has four attacks hitting and wounding on a
3+ with -1 rending and two damage each.
As a bonus, every time he slays an enemy hero with the Sword of Stolen
Hours, he heals a wound. The Knight of
Shrouds on foot’s command ability Spectral Overseer allows any friendly
Nighthaunt models within nine inches to add one to their hit rolls.
The Knight of Shrouds on Ethereal Steed gets is the far more powerful version in my opinion, getting six wounds instead of the five wounds of the on foot version, he can also move up to twelve inches instead six inches and his Ethereal Steed grants two more attacks with its Ghostly Hooves and Teeth.
He is also equipped with the Sword of Stolen Hours and it has the same attack profile and rules. Where he further differs from the Knight of Shrouds on foot is in his command ability. Lord of Gheists allows him to add one to the attack characteristic of any friendly Nighthaunt units within a whopping 18” of the Knight of Shrouds on Ethereal Steed. Any ability that grants an extra attack to a units profile is very useful when running him behind a large blob of Chainwrasp Hordes or my personal favorite Glaivewraith Stalkers.
The larger the model count in the unit, the more benefit you get from these attack stacking abilities. No matter which version you decide to add to your collection the Knight of Shrouds is a fantastic edition to your Warhammer Age of Sigmar Nighthaunt army collection. To add the Games Workshop Nighthaunt Keldrek Knight of Shrouds Malign Portents to your army, find it on Amazon here.
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“Tomb Banshee are apparitions of revenge who have long dwelt upon the dark deed that robbed them of vitality, love or contentment, becoming bitter and hate-filled. A single scream from a Tomb Banshee can freeze the life from even the bravest warrior” – Games Workshop Tomb Banshee flavor text.
The Tomb Banshee is a great filler hero unit for Warhammer Age of Sigmar Nighthaunt armies. Tomb Banshees are equipped with a Chill Dagger that does an automatic D3 mortal wounds on a natural six to-hit roll just like Myrmourn Banshees. The Chill Dagger normally does one attack hits on a four plus and wounds on a three plus with minus two rend and D3 damage for each wound. Which is still pretty decent if it goes in.
The only other ability of note for a Tomb Banshee is their Ghostly Howl. You can use Ghostly Howl during the shooting phase to target an enemy unit within ten inches of the Tomb Banshee and roll two six sided dice. If the total of the dice is higher than the target units bravery statistic it suffers a number of mortal wounds equal to the difference.
The Tomb Banshee is most effective if you keep her out of close combat so she stays alive longer and can use her other ability Ghostly Howl in as many turns as possible before she goes down. However, Ghostly Howl is only effective facing a force of mostly low bravery units like Skaven. Making her points or warscroll cost only worth it if you know you will be facing mostly low bravery units. She does make a great filler unit if you have less than one hundred points available left over in your list. The Tomb Banshee pairs up great with unit of Myrmourn Banshees to give her some protection. Check her out for yourself and see how far you can push Ghostly Howl in your own games of Games Workshop’s Warhammer Age of Sigmar.
Reviews from a family of gaming geeks. 